Shoe-upper



B. BEHRMANN.

SHOE UPPER;

APPLICATION FILED JULY I9, 1918.

1,386,223. Patented Aug. 2, 1921* Fig.5-

WITNESSES. INVENT'UR.

UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE.

BENJAMIN BEHRMANN, 0F MANCHESTER, NEW HAMPSHIRE.

SHOE-UPPER.

Application filed July 19,

To all 2071 am it may concern:

Be it known that I, BENJAMIN BEHR- MAI-IN, a citizen of Russia, residing at Manchester, in the county of Hillsborough and State of New Hampshire, have invented certain new and useful Improvements in Shoe- Uppers, of which the following is a specification.

This invention relates to shoe uppers. As now made, the main lining, side lining, vamp, and other parts are cut larger than they will be in the finished shoe to provide a lasting allowance which can be grasped by the pulling-over instrumentalities of the pulling-over machines.

As the material of the upper is expensive, various expedients have been tried for saving the lasting allowance which is now waste.

I am aware that a main lining has been attached to the leather or other material of the outer part and has been extended as a pulling-over extension; that a half-lining or side lining has been similarly extended, and I am aware that a band has been attached to each piece forming the bottom edge of the outer part; while the main lining, side lining, doubler, box-toe, etc., have been made with lasting allowances.

Such a band has generally been attached to each part of the upper, such as the toe-cap, the quarter, the foxing, or the full vamp, and where two such parts are sewed together there is an objectionable bunching, besides which the size marks are covered up, much tape is wasted, and much labor is lost.

I claim to be the first to make a shoe which has an outer layer and an intermediate layer or layers which may include a side lining, a doubler, a toe-cap, a counter, or any of them, such outer layer and intermediate layer being made without lasting allowance and being fastened together, preferably, by sewing a continuous band along the bottom edges to form a pullingover extension, while the inner layer or main lining has a lasting allowance and extends out substantially to the outer edge of the band.

The outer layer may include a full vamp, a cut-off vamp with vamp extension at tached, a vamp and foxings, or any of the usual combinations Well known to the shoe trade.

The inner layer, which is usually the main lining, may be made with a lasting allow- Specification of Letters Patent.

Patented Aug. 2, 1921.

1918. Serial No. 245,758.

ance to be grasped, together with the band, by the pulling-over instrumentalities, and 111 such a case it is preferably not sewed to the band and the outer layer.

Where the inner layer is made with a lasting allowance and not sewed to the band, the counter and box-toe stiffener may be inserted between, and by hand held in posit1on or caught in various ways well known to the trade.

I prefer to run my band continuously around the entire lower edge of the upper, but in some cases it may be better to make the toe-cap large enough to have a lasting allowance and to run a band around the entire bottom edge except the toe-cap.

I prefer to assemble and sew together all the principal pieces of the upper and to close the upper in at the heel before sewing on my band.

I illustrate my shoe upper in the accompanying drawings, in which Figure 1 is a side elevation of a Blucher shoe upper assembled and closed in at the heel with my band attached all around the bottom edge. Fig. 2 is a section of Fig. 1 on line 2-2. Figs. 3 and 4c are sectional views, similar to Fig. 2, showing variations of my construction. Fig. 5 is a View from the bottom or inside of a shoe upper with a box-toe stiffener and with my band in place. Fig. 6 is a view of the seam at the side lining with my band in position.

In the drawings, 0 represents the outer layer of a shoe upper which is usually built up of two or more pieces, such as the tip 22, 52, or 72, and quarters, such as 11 andl2.

I represents the inner layer which ordinarily corresponds with what is known as the main lining.

B is the narrow band which I use to take the place of the lasting allowance. especially on the outer layer and intermediate layer, and which may be made of tape, paper, ribbon, or other suitable material of sufficient strength to stand the pull of the pulling over instrumentalities.

D represents what is known as the doubler and S the side lining. The doubler, side lining, counter, vamp extension, boxtoe stiffener, or any other layer of sheet material lying between the outer and inner layers I will call an intermediate layer.

In Fig. 1, the outer layer includes the toecap 22, the vamp 20 and the quarters 11 and 12, only 11 being shown. The band B is sewed to the lower edge of the outer layer by means of stitching 40 and the inner layer is not sewed thereto.

With this construction it is evident that the box-toe stiffener and the counter can be inserted between the inner and outer layers as desired.

In Fig. 3, I show the intermediate layers D and S and outer layer 0, all withoutlasting allowances, sewed by means ot stitching 41 to band B, the inner layer I having a, lasting allowance and not being sewed to the other parts.

In Fig. 4., the inner layer I has a lasting allowance,and the outer layer 0 has none and is attached to band B by gluing or ('ementing instead or stitching.

In Fig. 5, I show how the box-toe stiffener 51 for the tip 52 may be made with ears 53 and 5d through which the stitching 55 for band 13 passes, thus catching the stiffener in position but without sewing'it all the way around. It is evident that it may be caught in placeby the staples which are new user instead of by the band stitching. I

In Fig. 6, the two overlapping parts of the main liningor side lining 50 and (51 may be XtBIlClQCl sliglitly outward at 62 and 63 so that the bandstitching 64C can pass through these extensions and hold the liningin place. This avoids the necessity of a separate stitching process.

In any case my outer layer or outer part, except perhaps the toe-cap, is made without a lasting allowance and I prefer that some or all of the intermediate layer or layers, should be made without lasting allowance.

In the claims, when I use the expression interior layer I include the inner layer, any of the intermediatelayers orany' part thereof.

In every case, the band is attached after the parts of the upper are assembled, tastened together and elose'd'in at the heel.

I claim:

1. A shoe upper which consists of a yamp comprising one or more pieces, a toe-cap fastened thereto, one ormore pieces of side lining, one or more pieces oi doubler,and a stiffener tor a box-toe, all such pieces being formed without lasting allowances, combined with a continuous band attached to and projecting beyond the bottom edges thereof to term a lasting allowance, together with a main lining which has a lasting allowance.

2; A shoe upper which consists of two or more pieces of the sheet material of the outer part, one or more pieces of side lining, one or more pieces of doubler, and a stiffener for a box-toe, all such pieces being formed without lasting allowances, combined with a continuous band attached to the bottom edges thereof to form a lasting allowance, and a main lining which has a lasting allowance. A. shoe upper which consists of one or more pieces of main lining, one or more pieces of side lining, one or more pieces of doubler, a counter, and a stiffener for a boxtoe, together with two or more pieces of the sheet material of the outer part, all such pieces, except the main lining, being formed without lasting allowances, and so assembled and fastened to ether that there are two or more pieces or; the outer part at the bottom edge, combined with a continuous band attached to the bottom edge of the outer part by sewing so as to form a lasting allowance which projects beyond the bottom edges of all thepieees'except the main lining. v a

l. A shoe upper which consists 01" one or more pieces of main lining, one or more pieces of side lining,one or more pieces of doubler, together with two or more pieces of the sheet material of the outer part,all such pieces, except the main lining, being formed without lasting allowances, and so assembled and fastened tegetherjthat there are two or more pieces of the outer part at the bottom edge,'combined with a'eontinuous band attached to the bottom edge of the outer part by sewing so as to form alasting allowance which projects beyond the bottorn edges of all the pieces except the main lining. 7 i i A shoe upper which consists of an inner layer having a lasting allowance, an outer layer, and an intermediate layer or layers formed of one or more pieces, such outer layer and intermediate layer or layers being made without lasting allowances, combined with a continuous band fastened to the bottom edges of the outer layerand ot the intermediate layer or layers so as to term a lasting allowance. f

3. A shoe upper which consists of an inner layer, formed of one or more pieces, an outer layer formed of? one or mo'repieces, and be tween them an intermediate layerto'rmedo'f one or more pieces, such outer layer and intermediate layer being formed without lasting-"allowances, and so assembled and tastened' together that there are two or more pieces of the outer layer at'the bottom edge, combined with a continuous band attached by sewing to the bottom edges of the outer layer and intermediate layer so as to form alasting allowance which projects beyond the bottom edges of all the pieces except the in nor layer. 1 p

In testimony whereof I ath); my signature.

BENJAMIN BEIIRMANN. 

